Myrmecocattleya Marissa's Aurora, (Cattleya Martin Wolfe × Myrmecophila tibicinis)

This cross between Myrmecophila tibicinis and Cattleya Martin Wolfe is 50% tibicinis, 25% Catt. schilleriana and the other 25% is from 9 other species of Cattleya.  Its most notable trait is the rich color of the flowers.

 

Lc. Llory Ann 'Paradise' x Myrmecophila lyonsii

 This is a first bloom of a seedling of this cross.  It still has some way to go before reaching adult size.  Adult plants are tall and produce an inflorescence that can carry 6 or 7 flowers.

A cross of Lc. Lory Ann 'Paradise' x Myrmecophila lyonsii

 This cross of Lc. Lory Ann 'Paradise' and Myrmecophila lyonsii is a large plant that produces a head of lilac colored flowers.  The flowers have different orientations but that is due to the fact that the Myr. lyonsii parent has non resupinate flowers.

  

Myrmecocattleya Rio's Little Treasure (Myrmecophila albopurpurea x Cattleya violacea)

 This cross of Myrmecophyla albopurpurea and Cattleya violacea is beautiful and apparently easier to grow than either species.  The flowers are larger than the Myrmecophila parent but smaller than the Cattleya.   Cattleya violacea is notoriously tricky to cultivate and many times it can grow well and bloom for a time only to start to go downhill and die.  My experience with Myr. albopurpurea is that it has failed to thrive and eventually died.   This plant doesn't seem to be as delicate as the parents.  

Myrmecophila culture: Why my plant won't bloom? A checklist of possible causes

The most common question I get asked about Myrmecophila orchids is “why won’t my plant bloom?” I have decided to make a checklist of the reasons Myrmecophila might not bloom. This will help guide you to find the way to make your plants bloom. 

1. Is the plant adult sized? Myrmecophilas are plants that in the wild live in a symbiotic relationship with ants that live inside their hollow pseudobulbs. These ants fertilize the plant with their feces. Plants in cultivation that don’t have ant colonies might become stunted and never reach adult size. So the first thing is to get an ID the plant and check on the size of an adult pseudobulb. If the pseudobulbs are smaller than the reported size for the species they you need to make sure you fertilize this plant with a high nitrogen fertilizer and give it plenty of water when it is producing new pseudobulbs. 

 

2. Is it getting enough sunlight? Myrmecophilas are not plants that bloom in shady spots. They will grow well, and might eventually produce a large clump of pseudobulbs. But they will not bloom. If a plant is an adult and is not blooming, the next thing to check it if it is getting the level of light it needs. I have seen Myrmecophilas growing quite well in places where they get full sun for most of the day. Personally, I put my plants close to the shade cloth, I grow them under a shade cloth that allows most of sunlight to come through. The best plants I have seen were grown with full exposure morning or afternoon sun, but protected from the midday sun by shade cloth or the canopy of a tree. 

 3. Is it in the proper location for blooming? Myrmecophilas are often planted on trees with dense canopies. This keeps the plants in shade. They will grow well but not bloom. A friend had a massive plant of Myr humboltii growing in a citrus tree. It had never produced a single flower. A hurricane severely damaged the canopy of the tree, allowing full sunlight to reach the Myrmecophila. As a result, the plant bloomed. 

 4. Is it receiving the care it needs at the critical time in its growth cycle? Most people I know affix their Myrmecophilas to a tree and that is that. No watering, except for rain, or fertilizing, except what it gets naturally from the tree or from ants if they have colonized the plant. This is a hit or miss approach. Some plants will grow well and bloom, other will rarely bloom and some will never bloom. I have seen Myr humboltii and Myr exaltata growing on the stems of palm trees doing well and blooming. I have seen a massive plant of Myr humboltii under the thick canopy of an avocado tree, with no evidence of it ever blooming. You need to observe your plant, and when it is producing a new pseudobulb, give it the watering and fertilizing it needs. 

 5. Is it healthy? Some Myrmecophilas are attacked by a type of fungus that kills their stems and primordial buds. You can tell this because part of the stem that should be green look like cork. The sad thing about this is that often nothing can be done. The warning sign is often that the plant is not producing new growths. The fact that the rest of the plant can look good even if it has lost all its capacity to produce new growths, and can remain looking good for years, is a confounding thing. Plants like this will not bloom ever. On occasion an older side bud will produce healthy new growth. But if a plant has not produced new growths after a few years, it is probably a lost cause. 

 6. Is the plant getting the proper nutrition? Sometimes you can do all the above things and still a plant won’t bloom. Sometimes a few extra things can give it the push it needs to bloom. I have used a dilution of Epson salt to give the plants more access to magnesium, in particular those that are growing in full sun and look yellow. A fertilizer with a high nitrogen concentration is recommended when the plant is producing new growths.

Myrmecophila brysiana culture: The free spirit

Myrmecophila brysiana When I received my plant of Myrmecophila brysiana from an online vendor, it was a tiny thing on a 2 inch pot. I made a custom-made wire basket for it. The plant spent the next few years producing a line of increasingly large pseudobulbs that were tightly clustered. So far everything was unremarkable. Last year, I noticed that it was producing its largest pseudobulb yet, but it was growing sidewise, into the side of the basket (large red oval). I made a hole for the pseudobulb to grow through. A few months later I was startled to discover it was producing a new growth, downwards directly into the media (red circle). I had to remove most of the media in the basket, as well as one side, to allow the new growth to enlarge and expand to full size. Then a few weeks ago, It started a third new growth, this one points straight up (small red oval). Given that the plant seems determined to grow in all directions at the same time, I will eventually let it hang from a wire and grow in whichever direction it wants.

Myrmecophila grandiflora culture: The well behaved one, that stays, mostly in the basket

When I brought this plant, many years ago, I decided to put it in a basket. I have other Myrmecophilas growing on trees, I wanted to be able to bring the plant into the house when in bloom. I put the seedling in the middle of a custom-made basket, with big chunks of bark. The plant has been growing in the basket for many years. It has been producing closely set pseudobulbs in a pattern that has been slowly growing around what was the body of the basket. I have had to remove parts of the basket to allow its pseudobulbs to grow out. Even though I used the most durable kind of media I could find for this plant, it has been in the basket for so long that all the media decayed and was washed away. The plant is now growing on its old dried pseudobulbs and roots. You can see in the photo the old hollow pseudobulbs. The inflorescence of this plant is quite tall, so if I put the basket on the floor, the flowers can be enjoyed at eye level. This plant needs heavy fertilization and plenty of watering when producing new growths. Failure to give this plant the fertilizer and water it needs in this part of its growth cycle will result in stunted pseudobulbs that won’t bloom. This plant is hung close to the shade cloth so that it gets the brightest light. I only move this plant when the inflorescences are developing. I use long hanging hooks, so that the inflorescences don’t scrape against the shade cloth and become damaged. When the inflorescences are growing, I take care that they don’t get tangled with the other baskets that are also hanging from the top of the shade house. This is also a problem with other genera that produce long inflorescences such as Encyclia.

Myrmecophila humboldtii [Rchb.f] Rolfe 1917, culture notes on growing this plant on the trunk of an avocado tree

When I first tried to grow Myrmecophila humboldtii, I tied it to an avocado tree.  Unfortunately, the place was too shady for the plant to bloom.  However it proved a very favorable place for it to grow.  And grow and grow and grow.  SInce it was not blooming it poured all its energy into producing canes and eventually became a large mass of pseudobulbs.  In time I removed pieces from this mass and moved them to sunnier spots where they bloomed.  The plant has continued growing up the tree.  The pseudobulbs shown in this photo have all died and decayed, but there are plenty of them higher in the tree.  The pseudobulbs are hollow and are inhabited by some ill tempered yellow ants.  The ants come out only at night.  If you damage the pseudobulbs they will come out.  The sting of these ants is painful and might produce some swelling.  For more information on the culture of this species, you can read: http://ricardogupi.blogspot.com/2011/01/myrmecophylla-schomburkia-humboltii-ant.html

Myrmetonia ( Schombonia ) Summertime (Myrmecophila tibicinis x Broughtonia sanguinea)

I saw this orchid at the 2016 Puerto Rico Orchid Society show.  The plant is large, the flowers are produced at the end of long inflorescences that however are not as long as those of the Myr. tibicinis parent.  

Myrmecophyla tibicinis, cultural notes

In a basket, under the shade of a large avocado tree

Growing on a palm trunk in full sun

St. Croix Botanical Gardens

In areas with warm weather Myrmecophyla tibicinis does very well when grown in a basket or mounted on a tree.   This orchid can grow in full sun, in fact it needs a certain amount of full sun exposure or it will not bloom.  Keeping this plant in too much shade is a common error among beginners.  However, this plant seem to grow better when is given a slight bit of shade from the sun when it is at its most intense, which locally is between the hours of 11 am and 4 pm.

This orchid can produce a huge specimen plant if well cared for.  In one of the photos above you can see a truly humongous specimen in a Ceiba pentandra tree in the St. Croix botanical gardens.   To me the key to have a large and floriferous plant, aside from the right level of sun exposure, is giving it the proper fertilizing when it is producing new pseudobulbs.  This plant should be given a high nitrogen fertilizer when it is growing to help it produce full sized pseudobulbs.  Small, undersized pseudobulbs will not bloom.

The plant growing mounted in a palm trunk, in full sun all day long, produces relatively short inflorescences.  The plant in the basket, which is growing under an avocado tree with a comparatively open canopy, produces the typical long inflorescences.  The inflorescences grow until they emerge from the canopy of the avocado tree, then they produce the flowers.

Some naturalized orchids in the town of Mayaguez, Puerto Rico

This is a Brassia, I have not been able to determine if it is a hybrid or a species

Possibly Laelia lueddemanni or a related species

This photo is used to illustrate how the flower of the Laelia on the tree look,
This plant is not the same clone as the plant on the tree.

A humongous plant of Dendrobium moschatum, see photo of flower below

A different view of the clump of Laelia lueddemanni

Rhyncholaelia dygbyiana

These orchids were put in this large tree many decades ago.  I can attest that all these plants were alreay in place and well established by the year 1980.  The large plant of Dendrobium moschatum seems to have been planted in the 1940's.  All these plants are surviving entirely on their own and have weathered uncountable storms and a few hurricanes.  If you look at the branch were the Brassia is growing, it is clear part of it snapped away years ago.   Unfortunately some of the orchids I saw in the 1980's died out or fell from the tree.  I recall there was a Myrmecophila, a Cattleya (possibly skinnery) and a Laelia similar to purpurata that are no longer in the tree.  Given that some were pretty high in the canopy, it is unlikely they were removed by humans as it would have taken some large equipment to reach so high.  I hope they remain in the tree for long years to come to delight and intrigue future generations of orchidists.